March is Adopt a Guinea Pig Month!

At Olathe Animal Hospital, we love guinea pigs! From our veterinarians, to technicians, to receptionists, we all recognize that these furry little pets can be every bit as loved as the family dog or cat. That’s why, in honor of Adopt a Guinea Pig Month, we present you with this…

Top 10 Reasons to Adopt a Guinea Pig

1. They have a ton of personality!
2. They don’t talk back to you. Unless you count “weep, WEEEEEP!” as talking back, but that’s just cute!
3. They won’t bite and scratch you, unlike some pets! Although some guinea pigs can be a little nippy, they are generally very social and enjoy receiving and giving attention.
4. They don’t need any vaccines! And with proper care, they tend to be very healthy little animals. However, we recommend wellness exams every six months so we can help ensure that they stay healthy.
5. You don’t have to take a guinea pig for a walk in the rain or snow! Keep their cage fresh and clean with lots of soft bedding.
6. Lots of guinea pigs are awaiting homes in shelters and rescue groups. You can save a life and get a new best friend—what more could you want!
7. You can save money by building your own cage—it’s easy! Using C&C (stands for Cubes & Coroplast) and directions provided on the Guinea Pig Cages website, you can create large, luxurious homes for your piggies at a fraction of the cost you’d pay for a store-bought cage.
8. Feeding them is easy! But do your research. The Guinea Lynx website has great dietary information. Guinea pigs should always have plenty of timothy hay available, and a high-quality guinea pig pelleted diet (NOT alfalfa-based pellets, and no “junk food” like seeds and dried fruit mixed in).
9. They make great pets for children (but make sure the family is committed to caring for them, as no living animal is “maintenance-free”.)
10. Just look at these faces!!

Meet Toby. He’s a 3-year old guinea pig, and a very loved member of the family. Every day, he wakes up to a clean cage, fresh water and timothy hay, plentiful food, and–his favorite–carrots. Oh boy, does he love carrots! His “mom” gives him about 2-3 baby carrots every day, which he devours.

Toby’s owner knew something wasn’t right when he stopped eating his carrots. Everything else seemed fine–eating, pooping, drinking, acting normally. Trusting her instinct, she brought Toby to Olathe Animal Hospital for an exam. Unable to find anything wrong on physical exam, even after careful examination of the teeth to rule out dental disease, Dr. Burcham recommended whole-body x-rays (radiographs). The problem became crystal clear: a large bladder stone was causing him significant discomfort.

So you may be asking yourself, how did he develop this bladder stone? Could it have been prevented? Reviewing the list of vegetables and their associated oxalic acid content on GuineaLynx.com, we suspect that Toby’s affection for carrots played a significant role. In fact, the top 5 vegetables containing high levels of oxalic acid are:

1. Parsley
2. Purslane
3. Spinach
4. Beet leaves
5. Carrot

High levels of oxalic acid in the diet are believed to contribute to formation of bladder stones. Other contributing factors may include calcium concentration in the diet, and genetic predisposition. GuineaLynx.com also has an article on bladder stones in guinea pigs, which you may find helpful.

Bladder stones in guinea pigs can only be cured with surgery, as they do not respond to dietary changes. Toby underwent a cystotomy (surgically opening the bladder), and the stone was easily removed. Although it took him about a week post-surgery to return to his normal activity level, he is now fully recovered.

The chinchilla (Chinchilla laniger) is native to South America, specifically the Andes mountain ranges of Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina.  Wild populations of chinchillas are thought to be endangered, if not extinct, but exact studies proving the current status of these animals have not been performed.

Chinchillas are herbivores (plant-eating) and are members of the rodent family. Consequently, their teeth grow continuously and they must have a proper diet in order to avoid dental problems.  They are generally shy creatures but will take to handling if encouraged to do so from a young age.  When handling your chinchilla, be aware of the defense mechanism called slip fur.  If the animal is handled roughly or is fighting to escape, large patches of fur are released enabling it to get away.

Reports indicate that the average life span in captivity is 10 years, but some can live up to 20 years in the appropriate environment.  Sexual maturity is reached at 8 months of age, so be sure to separate males and females before this age if you don’t want to get into the breeding business.  Gestation length is approximately 110 days and, on average, 2 to 6 young are produced per litter.  Babies are born fully furred with eyes and ears open and teeth present.  By 1 week of age they begin to eat solid food.  Weaning typically occurs between 6 and 8 weeks of age.

A large, multi-level cage is ideal to allow adequate activity as chinchillas are agile climbers and jumpers.  Wooden cages are a poor choice for two reasons: they are difficult to sanitize and they will be chewed up.  Wire grating is ok if the space between the wires is small enough to prevent feet from getting lodged.  Chinchillas should also be provided with a place to hide.  PVC pipe works well and can be sanitized in the dishwasher but it must be at least 5 inches in diameter.  Temperatures below 85 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity less than 50 to 60% are needed to avoid heat stroke and skin problems.

Chinchillas have a unique requirement of daily dust baths to maintain skin and coat condition.  Commercial dust is available at most pet stores.  If you prefer to make your own, 9 parts of silver sand and 1 part Fuller’s earth will do.  Regular sand is NOT adequate.  Place the dust in a shallow dish or pan and leave in the cage for 30 to 60 minutes.  Remove after use to help keep the dust clean and avoid excessive bathing.

An appropriate diet consists mainly of hay (prairie grass or timothy hay), available at most pet or feed stores, or through Oxbow Hay Company at www.oxbowhay.com.  Alfalfa hay is not appropriately balanced and should be avoided.  Fresh vegetables should also be fed, but in moderation.  Offerings of commercial chinchilla or rabbit pellets should be limited to 1 to 2 tablespoons per day in order to avoid obesity.  Other foods such as dried apples, raisins, figs, hazelnuts, and sunflower seeds should be limited to no more than one teaspoon daily.  Fresh, clean water should be offered daily; water bottles are preferable over bowls as they are easier to keep clean.  Hard items for gnawing (and helping keep teeth worn) should be provided (examples include pumice, maple, or birch).  Cedar, plum, redwood, cherry, and oleander are toxic and should be avoided.

Diseases of Chinchillas

Malocclusion- Teeth become overgrown and can lead to eating difficulties and abscesses of both soft tissue and bone.  Signs include salivation, anorexia, weight loss and lethargy.  Appropriate diet and gnawing surfaces are essential to prevent this condition.

Choke- Chinchillas are unable to vomit and get food items, bedding, and other objects lodged in their esophagus.  Drooling, retching, and breathing difficulties may be observed.  This can be a medical emergency.

Bloat- This is an accumulation of gas in the stomach.  It can occur with sudden food changes or with digestive tract inflammation secondary to other diseases.  This, too, can be life threatening.

Trichobezoars (hairballs) – Although seemingly minor, hairballs can be life-threatening if lodged on the digestive tract causing obstruction.  Lethargy and anorexia are symptoms. Feeding fresh pineapple pr papaya tablets may help prevent formation of hairballs due to certain enzymes present in each that help keep hair from sticking together in the digestive tract.

Constipation- This usually results from a diet too low in fiber and too high in carbohydrates and protein.  It can also occur as a result of GI obstruction, obesity, and lack of exercise.  Signs include straining to defecate, passing scant feces which are thin, hard, and occasionally blood-stained.

Diarrhea- Can be caused by inappropriate diet (overfeeding of fresh greens) but can result from parasites or GI infection.  Note that Chinchillas can carry Salmonella and may or may not have symptoms of disease.

Fur ring and paraphimosis- This is a condition in which fur collects around the penis preventing retraction of the penis into the prepuce (sheath).  It is often painful and can even cause obstruction of the urinary tract (an emergency situation).

Conjunctivitis- Eye infections can be caused by a number of things including excessive dust bathing, dirty poor quality bedding, or inadequate ventilation.  They can also result secondary to upper respiratory infections.  Signs include ocular discharge and redness or swelling of ocular tissue.

Alopecia (hair loss) – This is often a sign of underlying skin problems including infection (bacterial or fungal) and/or parasites (mites or fleas).  Diagnostic tests are often necessary to determine cause and appropriate treatment.

Heat Stroke- If temperatures exceed 85 degrees F and humidity is over 65%, heat stoke can occur and can be life threatening.  A good rule of thumb is the sum of temperature and humidity is greater than 150 (e.g. 85 + 65 = 150), risk of heat stroke is present.

*The above does not include all potential diseases of chinchillas but is intended to provide owners information about common diseases and their symptoms.

Introduction

Guinea pigs (Cavia porcellus) are rodents native to South America and were raised by the Incas for food and for use during religious ceremonies.  Today, these animals are raised as pets and laboratory research animals.  Guinea pigs are lively, interactive, gentle pets.  They are somewhat messy but relatively easy to care for, and do not have a tendency to bite when frightened, making them good pets for children.  There are three common types of domestic guinea pig in the pet trade: the short-haired English and American; the Abyssinian, whose hair is of intermediate length and grows in whorls or rosettes; and the long-haired (up to 15 cm) Peruvian.

Reproduction & Lifespan

Male guinea pigs are called boars, females are called sows, and babies are referred to as pups.  Reproductive capability can begin as early as 2 months of age for females and 3 months of age for males.  Gestation length is an average of 68 days with an average litter size of 2 to 4 pups.  Weaning of pups occurs at about 21 days.  The average life span of a guinea pig is 5 to 6 years.  One important factor in reproduction is the age at which a female guinea pig is first bred.  If a sow does not have her first litter before 6 months of age, her pubic bones may not be able to spread enough to allow the pups to pass through the birth canal.  This can result in dystocia (inability to give birth). Cesarean section is often necessary to save the sow’s (and the pups’) life.  Sexing should be done at an early age to prevent unwanted litters.  Spaying and neutering is often performed, not just for population control, but to avoid future health problems.

Cage set-up

Guinea pigs are social animals and should be housed together if possible.  Cages can be constructed of metal, glass, or plastic and should be easy to clean and disinfect.  Because guinea pigs do not jump or climb, a roof need not be provided but the sides of the enclosure should be at least 10 inches high.  Bedding should be absorbent and dust-free and needs to be cleaned at least once weekly to keep feces and ammonia levels to a minimum.  Cedar and other aromatic wood shavings should be avoided as they can damage the respiratory tract.  Recycled paper products work well because they make it easier to spot clean the cage and are often more absorbent than wood shavings.  We recommend Yesterday’s News cat litter.  Food and water bowls need to be heavy enough that the guinea pig cannot tip them over.  Water sipper bottles are preferred and should be disinfected weekly.

Diet

Nutrition is relatively easy but there are important considerations that, if ignored, can lead to serious health problems.  Guinea pigs develop food preferences early in life and do not adjust well to sudden dietary changes.  Thus, a variety of foods should be offered from a young age.  Guinea pigs are herbivores and therefore have high fiber and low protein requirements.  Commercial guinea pig pellets are readily available and should be fed sparingly to avoid obesity.  Also, pelleted food should not contain other “junk foods” such as seeds, dried fruit and vegetables, and colored treats.  Timothy or prairie grass hay should be available at all times to provide fiber which is important for gastrointestinal health.  Alfalfa hay should be avoided because it has high levels of calcium which can lead to bladder stone formation. Guinea pigs are unable to synthesize vitamin C and are completely dependent on a dietary source (a trait shared only by humans and primates). Therefore, fresh vegetables should be offered daily to prevent vitamin C deficiency.  Leafy greens such as kale, parsley, beet greens, and spinach, are good sources of vitamin C, as are red and green peppers and broccoli.  One quarter of an orange can also be provided daily (with rind removed).  Commercial pellets are manufactured with added vitamin C, but it degrades quickly making dietary supplementation a must.  Another option for providing the vitamin is to put it in the drinking water (200 to 400 milligrams per liter of distilled water).  Water should be mixed fresh on a daily basis to ensure activity of the vitamin.  Careful monitoring of water intake is necessary because some pigs do not like the taste the vitamin imparts on the water.  Oxbow Hay Company offers a full line of products and can be contacted at www.oxbowhay.com or 1-800-249-0366.

Diseases of Guinea Pigs

Parasites – External parasites are seen with relative frequency, the most

common of which are skin mites (mange).  Depending on the type of mite present, the animal may or may not be itchy.  Hair loss, dry, flaky skin, and self induced trauma from scratching can also be present.  Confirming the presence of mites includes collecting skin and hair samples and observing the mites under a microscope.  Fleas and lice are seen less commonly.  Length and variety of treatment depends on the parasite but includes either topical or injectable parasiticides.  None of these parasites are known to infect people.

Ringworm – This is not a worm but a fungus that infects the skin and hair.  Affected animals may or may not be itchy and have localized areas of hair loss. Many guinea pigs are asymptomatic carriers and active disease often results from stress, poor husbandry, and underlying disease.  Diagnosis is made by collecting hair and skin samples and performing a fungal culture.  Treatment with either topical or oral medications is usually successful.  Ringworm can be transmitted to and from guinea pigs, other pets, and owners.

Pododermatitis – Often referred to as “bumblefoot”, foot infections generally result from poor husbandry practices.  This disease is very painful and debilitating.  Infection can progress quickly to involve not only the skin, but underlying tissues and bone.  Treatment must be aggressive and involves antibiotic therapy, pain control, foot soaks, wound treatment, and frequent bandage changes.  Even with the best efforts and intentions the prognosis is often grave, making prevention the key.

Cervical lymphadenitis – Also called “lumps”, this disease is characterized by bacterial infection of the lymph nodes in the neck.  Infection often results from damage to oral tissues, allowing bacteria access to the lymph nodes.  The hallmark sign is swelling under the chin which represents pus-filled nodes.  Affected pigs are often depressed and painful.  The most successful treatment is to surgically remove the affected nodes and initiate appropriate antibiotic therapy.  Proper husbandry, diet, and a stress-free environment can aid in prevention.

Alopecia – Generalized hair loss can occur for a variety of reasons from parasitic disease to ringworm, vitamin deficiency to excessive grooming, and adrenal gland tumors to ovarian cysts.  Diagnosis is made by excluding possibilities through appropriate testing.  Treatment varies depending on the cause.

Scurvy – Vitamin C deficiency can occur quickly (within months) and can be quite severe.  Guinea pigs require a dietary source of the vitamin as their bodies are unable to synthesize it.  Deficiency results in defective collagen formation which is important in the proper function and integrity of blood vessels, bone and cartilage, and the ligaments which anchor the teeth their sockets.  Signs of vitamin C deficiency include rough hair-coat, anorexia, diarrhea, loose teeth, delayed wound healing, lameness, and increased susceptibility to bacterial infections.  Guinea pigs require 15 to 30 milligrams of vitamin C per day.  Deficiencies require aggressive therapy.

Respiratory disease – Infections can affect any body system but are most common in the respiratory tract.  Signs include nasal discharge, matted fur on the inside of the front legs (from grooming nasal discharge), sneezing, coughing, wheezing, and respiratory distress.  Respiratory infections are almost always more advanced than they appear.  Any suspicion of respiratory disease should be taken very seriously.  Treatments are most successful when initiated early on in the course of the disease.  Antibiotics and good nutrition are essential for recovery.  There have also been reports of cancer of the respiratory tract.

Urinary tract disease – Guinea pigs are susceptible to urinary tract infections as well as bladder stones.  Diagnosis is based on urinalysis and, occasionally, x-rays of the abdomen.  Signs include straining to urinate, blood tinged or cloudy urine, pain on urination, and inability to urinate.  Treatment involves antibiotics for infection, and surgery for removal of stones.  Urinary tract obstruction from stones is a medical emergency.

Gastrointestinal disease – Intestinal parasites do occur in guinea pigs, although not commonly.  Diarrhea may be due to parasites, bacterial, or viral infections and can occasionally be induced by prolonged antibiotic therapy.  Dehydration can occur quickly so treatment should be initiated immediately.  Type and success of treatment depends on the cause.  Guinea pigs have been known to carry certain strains of Salmonella, usually a result of fecal contamination of feed.  Always practice good hygiene, whether or not the guinea pig appears ill.

Dental disease – Improper jaw alignment, or malocclusion, can result in uneven wear of teeth.  Guinea pig teeth grow continuously throughout life so complications of malocclusion can be severe.  Oral erosions and tooth abcesses can occur leading to the inability to prehend and chew food properly.  Anorexia, weight loss, and malnutrition follow.  Sometimes the only sign is excessive salivation.  Oral examination often requires sedation, as does trimming of the teeth.  Malocclusion is a lifelong disorder requiring frequent attention.

Heatstroke – Guinea pigs are susceptible to heat stroke, even in moderate temperatures (70 to 80 ° F).  High humidity levels make it more difficult for the animals to dissipate heat.  Signs include panting, excessive salivation, disorientation, weakness, and even death.  Prevention is aimed at maintaining appropriate temperature, humidity, and ventilation parameters.  Heatstroke is a medical emergency.

Cancer – Cancer can occur in any body system at any age.  Mammary gland tumors are most common, but liver, spleen, lungs, reproductive tract, and skin can be involved as well.  Cancer can be either benign (not likely to spread) or malignant (easily spread).

* The above list of diseases is not intended to include every possible disease of guinea pigs, but to provide guinea pig owners information regarding common diseases and their symptoms.

You may find yourself wondering, “How do I give my _______ (parrot, hamster, guinea pig, rabbit, hedgehog, etc.) medication?” Because we see so many exotics at Olathe Animal Hospital, we are faced with this question a lot. The answer lies in compounding! Compounding is the process of taking the original form of a medication (usually a pill large enough for a 50 lb dog!) and converting it into a palatable (tasty) concoction that allows accurate and easy dosing.

For example, a rat with a respiratory infection might be prescribed enrofloxacin (Baytril) and doxycycline. The average Baytril dose for a rat might be 2.5 mg. But the smallest Baytril pill is 22.7 mg. Even if you cut it into quarters (which is hard to do), the rat is getting more than double its recommended dose! But when we compound it, we crush it into a powder, mix it with a carefully measured amount of compounding syrup, add some flavoring, and the resulting concentration is about 22.7 mg/ml. So you’ll end up giving your rat about 0.1 cc of this compounded solution, which isn’t very much at all! And because we use tasty flavoring, such as peanut butter, the rat thinks she’s getting a special treat! We do the same thing with the doxycycline.

Compounding can be used for all types of animals, including dogs and cats, as well as all of the exotics. The flavoring we use depends on the types of food that the patient finds appealing. We have the following flavors available, and we’re happy to make a suggestion if you aren’t sure which one is best for your pet.

• Apple
• Banana
• Beef
• Chicken
• Milk
• Grape
• Bubblegum
• Orange
• Liver
• Peanut Butter
• Watermelon